The other day I was sourcing new SPF recommendations from my group of trusted skincare advisors (aka my friends who I know are as obsessed with skincare as I am). One of my friends, Nina, asked me if I had tried anything from The Inkey List. So I thought I’d share my thoughts here as well.
Initially I said I was currently using the hyaluronic acid, and had tried the PHA toner. Then, I realized I had also tried the collagen booster serum, which is actually my favorite.
The collagen booster adds a nice plumpness to my skin, and the texture is slightly thicker than water, so it perfectly preps the skin for applying moisturizer. In my opinion does, it also does a better job than the hyaluronic acid. The collagen booster includes hyaluronic acid AND a peptide, though in small amounts (MORE ON THAT LATER). So, I’d definitely recommend the collagen booster.
My test with PHA Toner is a bit more complicated. I had tried it at the same time I was also experimenting with not washing my face in the morning (BIG MISTAKE). So, my skin went a little haywire, and I stopped my test with the toner. This was about a year ago, and I looked at my product and it has a 6 month expiration, so I had to toss it in the trash. TBD if I well repurchase right away (I’m currently testing the Josh Rosebrook Daily Acid Toner).
INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient)
As I was exploring other products from The Inkey List, I was reminded of something I already knew – the products may have little ingredient concentrations. The name “Inkey” comes from INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) referring to the list of ingredients on product packaging. This list of ingredients in in order from highest concentration to lowest concentration. So when I’m shopping for new products, if I want a hyaluronic acid serum for example, I’m looking for hyaluronic acid to appear near the top of the ingredient list, not the bottom.
Let’s look at the Ceramide Night Treatment ingredient list to break this down. This product markets the benefits of ceramides, but let’s look at the INCI list.
Aqua (Water/ Eau), Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Squalane, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, PCA, Polysorbate 60, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Alanine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Serine, Cholesterol, Valine, Xanthan Gum, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Ceramide EOP.
The ceramides are near the bottom. What’s more, is the ingredient Phenoxyethanol is used as a preservative that is globally approved in concentrations up to 1%. Meaning, (up to) 1% of the total product is made up of phenoxyethanol. Now, if an ingredient falls below this ingredient, that means there is 1% or less in the formula. Where do the ceramides fall on the list?
Overall, the brand has some great products that seem to provide results. And for affordable prices! Let’s not forget that. The collagen booster, for example is $10. In my opinion, you are certainly getting what you paid for, and that’s that on that.
This discussion on ingredients listing and what I look for is absolutely not to disparage The Inkey List in any way, I love exploring their products, and definitely recommend the collagen booster. There are certainly other brands that have similar marketing. I share this detail to give insight into how I make purchasing decisions (and why I’m in the store so long reading the product packaging)
Andrew Hutchinson 